How to get started, tools and supplies for stained glass

Beginners Guide to Stained Glass Tools and Supplies

Want to get into stained glass and don’t know where to start? Don’t worry, I got you! I’ve broken down the tools and supplies you need to begin! This list may seem daunting at first, but I tried to keep it to items which are essential to my process in the studio.

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Cutting:

Scissors

To cut out your patterns and trim your foil.

Foil Shears (optional) 

Are also handy, they trim the lines on your pattern removing just enough space for the foil. I didn’t start with shears, however I do find them incredibly useful so they’re worth a mention.

Glass!

Of course you’ll need glass! When I started I would buy glass scraps to play around with. As for sheets, I suggest the smoother glass to start with, anything with texture is harder to work with. 

Sharpie

For tracing your pattern pieces onto the glass. You can also use this to smooth out your copper foil.

Pro Tip: use chapstick or vaseline over your sharpie lines so they last longer when you’re grinding 😉

Running & Grozing Pliers

Break your scores with both of these. I like the brand Leponitt. If I had to choose just one pair, it would be my grozing pliers as they can run a score, pull out small pieces and nip away at any excess glass.

Glass Cutter with Oil

There are many styles of glass cutters. You run it along the glass and it scores it for you ready to break with your pliers. I prefer my Pistol Grip cutter by Toyo over the pencil style cutters. As find it easier on my wrists. But I encourage you to try a variety to see what suits you best.

I purchase any oil they have in stock from my glass supplier, they all seem to work fine.

Pro-tip: put some oil in the bottom of a small jar with some kitchen roll. Dab your cutter into it every few scores. This is better than filling the chamber with oil because they tend to leak

Grinder

Smooths your glass pieces. I tried to start stained glass without just a grinding stone, don’t do that if you get wrist and hand pain like me. I use a Kristall 2000 Grinder by inland with a few of their accessories. I know there are cheaper options on Amazon that work well for beginners.

    Foiling & Soldering:

    Black Backed Foil (7/32")

    The foil isn’t for aesthetics, it actually creates the channel for solder to adhere to. It gives your piece strength. I suggest you start with 7/32" as it fits most glass. I prefer the brand Edco, I’ve tried a few different foils and Edco was the easiest and most consistent to work with.

    Copper foil comes in copper, silver or black backed finish to match your patina. I suggest black to start with as it’s harder to see if your foil work is a little messy.

    60/40 Solder

    Solder is the metal used to join glass pieces. It’s made of 60% Tin and 40% Lead, which is where it gets its name. I just purchase whichever brand my supplier has. They all seem to work fine.

    Pro-tip: if your solder isn’t smoothing out, use a little more flux. If it’s bubbling or smoking a lot, use a little less. 

    Soldering Iron WITH temperature control:

    For nice smooth solder lines, the temperature control is a must. If your iron is too hot or too cold, you are not going to have a good time trying to control the solder. I use a Hakko soldering iron now, but when I first started I used a generic unbranded one with a temperature dial. For beginners I suggest you set your soldering iron at 360°c.

    Brass Wire or Soldering Sponge

    Your soldering iron will usually come with a stand that has space for either of these items. I use a brass sponge with my Hakko. Their purpose is to clean off your soldering iron tip when it gets dirty with flux etc.

    Flux & Brush

    There are a lot of flux options, not all of them are made for the solder we use for stained glass. To be sure, you’re best to choose a flux from your local glass store or online supplier.  I use Old Masters Flux by Novacan.

    I use a flux brush from my supplier, they’re usually cheap as they need replacing quite often as the flux deteriorates their quality over time.

    Pro-tip: trim your flux brush halfway down so it doesn’t pick up too much flux.

    Copper Wire & Wire Nippers

    You can get plain copper wire or pre-tinned to create hoops to hang your glass from. As solder sticks to copper when you use flux. I use both 1mm and 1.6mm wire on my projects, the thinner wire is for details and the thicker is for the hanging loops. 

    Finishing Touches:

    Patina (optional)

    Patina is what changes the colour of your solder lines. It comes in black and copper. I use Novocan brand Patina. Apply with a clean toothbrush or cotton wool balls. Just be sure to use your nitrile gloves to avoid chemical burns.

    Dish Soap and Nail Brush 

    The first step in your cleaning process should be to clean your glass for a flawless finish. Dish soap is perfect for this. I prefer a nail brush over a sponge as it can get into all your solder lines to remove any leftover flux.

    Polish

    Carnauba wax is perfect and my preferred way to polish my pieces. Alternatively, I’ve also had great results with Pledge polish for wood. It works great for stained glass as it contains wax, so you’ll get a nice shine with the added bonus that it protects your piece!

    Cloths

    You’ll need these to buff your art to a beautiful shine. I like microfibre cloths.

    Wax Cord or Chain

    To display your masterpiece to the world! I use both waxed cord or black jack chain, depending on the weight of the finished panel.

      Safety:

      Eye Protection:  

      It’s crucial to wear safety glasses whilst you are cutting, grinding or soldering.

      Respirator Mask

      Optional, however I recommend one for long soldering sessions. although a window open with a fan blowing away from you should be fine in a well ventilated room. 

      Trousers and Shoes

      Hot lead can land on you especially when you are new and learning to control the solder. So please wear trousers not shorts and some form of shoe that covers your feet.

      Cut Proof Gloves

      I still use mine now, whilst sorting through my scrap glass bin, for gripping glass that’s being difficult to break and whilst edge beading because the glass gets hot.

      Nitrile Gloves

      If you do choose to purchase some patina. Please use nitrile gloves! That stuff will erode through your clothes…so imagine what it can do to your hands! Keep safe 🖤

      But Jessie, where do I find all of these supplies?!

      If you aren’t lucky enough to have a local glass supply store (one can dream, I don’t have one nearby either). There are plenty of suppliers online! I personally use Creative Glass Guild for all of my supplies, they don’t sponsor me (again a girl can dream). I just enjoy the selection they have and the staff are always wonderful to deal with. 

       
      Remember: This is a starting point. Budgets and preferences vary. Don't be discouraged if you can't afford everything at once. I suggest checking Facebook marketplace or eBay for bargains.

      Happy Creating!

      Jessie 🖤

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